Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Wendy AKA Mrs. MVP

Lately we’ve been trying to get the Namumu children into the habit of reading more books. There are a number of donated books lying around in the Namumu store room, children’s books and young adult books, mostly. We’ve been distributing them and encouraging the kids to read some every day. Some of the staff members have even been reading with the children during their free time.

Since I don’t have much to do in the evenings I’ve been wandering over to the small, lighted chalet near the girls’ dormitory and reading with some of the girls from time to time. Most of the girls only attend sporadically, but my homegirl Wendy is there almost every night.

Wendy is 14 years old and is in the 9th grade at Siavonga High School. Sadly, the reading skills of many of these girls are pretty terrible. A few of them in the 7th grade struggle to get through children’s books, for example. Wendy is rocking and rolling, though.

I always ask these kids what they want to do when they leave Namumu. Wendy says she wants to be a journalist. I’m trying to encourage her to work towards that goal. I told her that she needs to be reading or writing something every night, and so far I think she’s done it.

While some of the other Namumu girls around her age are struggling with reading, Wendy and I have almost made it all the way through “Gifted Hands”, the autobiography of Ben Carson, the world famous neurosurgeon. It’s not an easy read. He uses some big words and a good deal of medical terminology. Wendy has a tough time with “hemispherectomy”, a word Ben uses excessively, but she’s almost got it down. She keeps plugging away and has almost finished the book. I’m very proud of her.

Wendy is a nice girl who’s happy almost all of the time. In addition to reading she likes working in the garden and, like all other Namumu-ans, she loves professional wrestling. I’ve learned to not even bother showing up to read before 8 pm on Wednesday evenings because that’s when WWE Smackdown is on and lord knows she can’t miss that. She really likes this one wrestler named MVP and thinks that he is very handsome, but let me tell you, this guy is a total goober and I make fun of her for it constantly. Google image search for him and you’ll see what I mean.

If you have any message for Wendy or any advice on finding a way into the journalism profession give me a holler and I’ll be sure to pass it along…

Monday, July 27, 2009

Country Boys Head Out to the Big City

I got the chance to skidaddle out of Siavonga the other day. We needed to get some supplies from Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, for construction on the Namumu poultry house (formerly the piggery) and for our welding guys. We hired a large truck and I joined Vincent, our head welder, and Kelly, our maintenance officer that is helping with the poultry construction, on the trip. It wasn’t too exciting, but there were a few highlights that I thought I’d share from our journey:

As you might imagine, you don’t pass many fast food restaurants on the three hour-ish drive from Siavonga up to Lusaka. So, whenever the driver felt like it was time for a pit stop we’d pull onto the shoulder and everybody did their business right on the roadside. Nobody seemed to make too much of an effort to move away from the road and into the tall grasses, either, just taking a few steps to the side. During college, I often made the claim that one of my favorite things about being in college, if not my favorite thing, was the fact that it was more or less socially acceptable for guys to pee just about anywhere. Needless to say, these impromptu pit stops don’t bother me much.

Once in Lusaka, a random guy shouted, “Hey, Chuck Norris!” at me again. True story. Oddly enough, it was at almost exactly the same time of day in the exact same area of town as the last time. Major déjà vu. I’m pretty sure it was a different guy this time, though. He immediately proceeded to run me down and ask me for money, which, for me, lessened the impact of the compliment, since I’m pretty sure he was just buttering me up before making his request. Then again, maybe he thought I actually was Chuck Norris and therefore had a lot of money to throw around. I guess we’ll never know.

Later on, I experienced my first Zambian theft on the streets of Lusaka. I was sitting up in the front seat of the truck and Vincent was sitting in the back with all the supplies. It’s a big, 3-ton truck (looks like a big pick-up) and we had a lot of our supplies scattered in the back. We had bought some big supplies, like lumber, chicken wire and metal sheets, and some small ones in bags, like nails, paint and thinner. As we were rolling up to a stop light this skeezy looking guy casually walked up beside the truck, snatched a few of the bags and started walking away.

Vincent must have been day-dreaming because he didn’t see it. The driver did, though, in one of his side mirrors. I jumped out and ran after the guy and so did Vincent. The guy was a total pansy. He dropped the bags and ran behind a building. I had time to yell out a few things about what I’d like to do to him, things that God was probably not happy about, before collecting the items and jumping back in the car. Learned my lesson on that one. You have to watch out in the big city.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Uncle Chuck Norris Goes to Sea (actually to the lake, but whatever) - PART II

...And the kapenta did come.

After around an hour or two of waiting, during which the fishermen chatted above the roar of the generator and played a checkers-like game called “drafts” with bottle caps on the deck, the guys hopped into action. Silof, the “Namumu” boat captain, turned off the lights. All four crew members gathered at the side of the boat and, together, turned the crank handles that brought up the net. After heave-ho-ing for a few minutes, the iron rim holding the net rose slowly out of the water.

To envision the rim and net, picture a basketball hoop. The net is attached to the large (5 feet in diameter), circular metal rim in just the same way. The net extends down for around 10 meters, where it is tied off at the bottom and weighted with a rock. When the rim is low in the water, the fish, like a bunch of stupid morons, swim down through the top of the rim towards the water light, which is lowered down the center of the net to the bottom by a long cable.

The guys pulled up the bottom of the net, untied the rope, and emptied the fish out into plastic crates that are kept on the boat. Each of the five pulls a night, during a good month like July, will bring in around 30 kgs of kapenta. After the pull, they tied and weighted the bottom of the net, lowered the rim and net back into the water, turned the lights back on and cleaned off the deck. Three of the crew members promptly and with little chit chat went to the corner, curled up and fell asleep, while one curled up and kept watch. Because the generator is thumping throughout the night, if all crew members slept it would be easy for someone to sneak on board and swipe some of the kapenta. Or something could go wrong with the boat, or the lights, etc. This is why one man keeps watch.

This cycle carries on throughout the night. The fishermen get up, pull up the net, bring in the fish, and go back to sleep. Again. And again. And again. I wanted to tell ghost stories or play truth or dare, but given the loud pounding of the generator and the fact that not one of the guys on the “Namumu” boat spoke much English at all, I decided it would be best if they just follow the usual routine and go to sleep.

Around 7 am they made their last pull, turned off the generator and we headed for home.

Now, most people had led me to believe that all fishermen are, more or less, drunken buffoons who cannot be trusted and must be watched carefully. I had always imagined that, during the daytime, most fishermen sat around drinking, smoking and stirring up trouble. That picture couldn’t have been further from the truth.

First, our guys finished their work, spreading out the night’s catches on the drying racks. A few of them mended the nets, using string to tie up the holes. A few helped with the weighing of the catches. After that, they sat around, cooking and eating nsima and kapenta. After that they sat around and talked or slept. Some of them went to play soccer at a nearby field with some of the guys from other fishing camps. As you can see, it wasn’t exactly the raging party I had been led to expect.

And I know what you’re probably thinking. You’re thinking that they were only behaving themselves because Uncle Chuck Norris, the Supervisor, was around. However, Mubita, a man who has my trust completely, informed me that what I saw was the usual routine.

Other than that, not a whole lot happened. I went out with the “Lucy” boat the next night, switching boats with Mubita. It was the exact same routine. Pierson, the captain for the Lucy boat and the outspoken ringleader of the entire group, was fun to watch. Always smiling, always laughing and always speaking very very quickly in Tonga, Pierson’s energy is contagious. His crew worked happily the entire night. He made me proud.

The second day in the camp was just as low-key as the first.

I did experience one of my favorite moments in Africa so far when, after putting off bathing for a few days (something that is becoming all too common for me as of late) I was able to find a secluded area along the lake and bath in the cool, crisp, clean (well, probably not that clean) water of Lake Kariba with the warm midday sun shining down upon my face. It was magical.

Shortly thereafter I hopped on a small boat we had hired and rode back to Siavonga, more than a little bit wiser about Namumu’s kapenta operation.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Uncle Chuck Norris Goes to Sea (actually to the lake, but whatever) - PART I

In Ernest Hemingway’s “The Old Man and the Sea”, the Old Man reminisces constantly, looking back on his life as a young man. At one point he thinks back to a time when he was working on a ship that sailed off the coast of Africa. He remembers the warm breeze blowing and seeing lions walking on the shore.

Well, technically I wasn’t sailing off the coast of Africa, I was on Lake Kariba, the large lake separating Zambia from Zimbabwe. And I didn’t actually see any lions. Still, when I set out for our island camp with the Namumu fishing crew this past weekend, I probably came as close to being in an Ernest Hemingway novel as I’ll ever be. Oh, what an adventure it was.

We set out early on Friday, packing all of our gear onto the “Lucy” boat and pulling out of the nearby harbor. Joining me were Mubita, our rig foreman (or supervisor), Jere, our fish weigher/drier, and Namumu’s eight fishermen.

Our camp is set up on a large island to the south west called Chirundundike. I’m not sure of the distance. In a smaller, faster boat the trip might take around one or two hours. Ol’ Lucy made it in about seven, puttering away, slow and steady. Still, it was an enjoyable trip. Even the deafening roar of our 20 horsepower diesel engine could only take away from the beauty of the lake but so much. Anyone that has seen an African sunrise can feel me on that one. More than once I stood over the front railing and, with arms spread, shouted, “I’m the King of the World!”. Sadly, nobody laughed. No Leo fans onboard, I suppose.

So, we made it to the camp in the early afternoon and set up shop, just off the lake shore where our guys had cleared away an area within the bush. The camp? There ain’t much to it. All it consists of are six long racks of plastic mesh for drying the night’s catches and two small grass huts, one where Jere sleeps and one where Mubita sleeps when he isn’t out on the boats monitoring the guys at night. Our camp is just one of a number of camps on Chirundudike. Similar camps for other companies surrounded us, though they were a ways off. We were pretty isolated. Like the area surrounding Namumu, this is very much bush-land. Luckily I’d proven to myself that I could survive out in the bush before. Plus, I have a beard, so, you know, it was no big deal…

After unloading the gear, it wasn’t long before it was time to head out and fish for the first night of the month. Around 4 pm, Mubita hopped on the “Lucy” boat and I hopped on the “Namumu” boat to head out. With the threat of kapenta theft ever-looming over the fishing companies in Siavonga, Mubita and I needed wanted to monitor the activities.

Theft is a big problem in the kapenta fishing industries and, as you may recall, used to be a particularly big problem for Namumu, leading to the termination of the contracts of nearly everyone in the fishing department last year.

What usually happens is that small boats will sneak around the lake at night and approach any number of the kapenta rigs out on the water. Certain fishermen will sell these guys kapenta at a discounted price and pocket the money without reporting to their supervisors that they’d caught the fish in the first place.

Short of putting a supervisor on the rig every night there’s not a whole lot that can be done, and even that becomes tricky as some supervisors get in on the action. Police boats patrol the lake at times, but, as you might have assumed, police in Africa aren’t always the most reliable fellows. It wouldn’t surprise me if they do some of the stealing themselves. Most other companies hire a supervisor to cruise around in a small boat from rig to rig to check on their fishermen. Even here, if you have a small boat to do this, which Namumu doesn’t at the moment, whenever the supervisor leaves it’s still possible to steal.

So, as of now Mubita is randomly spending the night on one of the boats from time to time, and I’ve made it explicitly clear to our guys that if we have any indication that any amount of theft is involved, no matter how minor, every one of their contracts will be terminated and we will find a completely new crew.

However, after getting to know our crew over the last four months and after REALLY getting to know after eating, sleeping and fishing with them this past weekend, I can say that I think they are operating honestly and that they are working hard. And I have total trust in Mubita as well. I hope this doesn’t change, but we’ll see.

We parked our rig a few kilometers off shore and the guys prepared all of the equipment (to get an idea of what the rig looks like you might want to look back to a picture I posted very early on in the blog). Around 6 pm the guys lowered the large, round net into the water, kicked on the large generator onboard, and switched on the lights, two up out of the water and one that was lowered deep in the water. Then we waited for the kapenta to come…

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Farewell to WCPC (and to Pedro the Chicken)

It’s been a while since I’ve posted, so let me try to get you up to speed on what’s new at Namumu with a few quick notes…

My homies from the Woodlands have come and gone. The group, made up of four guys, left Namumu on Sunday. And, despite a number of unfortunate events, including power outages, bankrupt airlines, minibus accidents, broken toes and unexpected dips in the lake (all of which are described in detail in Tom’s blog contribution below), I think we had a great time together. The Woodlands Community Presbyterian Church has had a strong relationship with Namumu for 10 years now. While it’s not uncommon these days for churches in the US to partner up with churches or organizations in the developing world for a project or two and then to split, to “love ‘em and leave ‘em”, WCPC and Namumu have kept their relationship strong over the years. What a great example to follow.

And no, technically I did not kill the chicken. Tom did. However, I did chop off the head and the feet, remove the feathers and the intestines, and contribute to the cooking. I look at it as a warm-up for the many chickens I am going to kill and eat while I’m here. After all, I am a man...a man who invented the wheel and built the Eiffel Tower out of metal...and brawn. I’ll be sure to keep a kill count for all of you back home.

Some of the boys and I have been hiking quite a bit through the hills around Namumu lately. There are a number of hills surrounding us and all of them make for good hiking. It is very much bush-land, but, other than snakes, I’m told there shouldn’t be any dangerous animals out there. Not this time of year, anyway. There are monkeys, though, I’m told. Clivet and I will be going out strapped with slingshots from now on, so hopefully one of us will bag a monkey soon. I’m sure my chicken preparing and cooking skills will carry over to monkey preparing and cooking as well.

Lest you think the only thing I’m doing with my time is killing and eating wild animals, I want you to know that I’m still working very hard to improve the Namumu businesses. I have a good team with me and things are going well. Our fishing crew is still rocking and rolling, as are our carpentry and welding guys. I’m actually going to camp out with the fishing crew way out in the islands when they leave this month, just to monitor that side of the operation. I’m sure this will lead to plenty of blog-worthy material, so stay tuned…

Pedro's Revenge...According to Tom

My apologies for the delay in posting here. The phone line has been down and I haven’t been able to get on for a while. TIA, after all.

Thanks for all the birthday wishes. Birthdays aren’t a big deal here, so it was pretty low key around Namumu, but I definitely enjoyed reading the posts/emails from everyone.

A number of interesting events have occurred recently. I’ll get to them soon enough. As for now, though, I’ve got a little something new for everyone.

The group of visitors from The Woodlands Community Presbyterian Church in Houston, Texas, spent the week with us last week. Tom Swaffield, the youngest of the group at 16, wrote up a little something at my request. Tom is a bright kid and I think you’ll enjoy what he has to say.

So, here you go. I’ll try to expound on some of his thoughts in the future, but as for now I’ll leave it to Tom…

And yes, animals were harmed in the making of this blog…


Tom’s Blog


This is my first time to add to this blog as I am not Sam, but a visitor from Houston, Texas named Tom. We arrived here at Namumu as a part of a longer trip which included multiple stops beginning in Lusaka at Justo Mwale Theological College, moving along to Siavonga at the United Church of Zambia, and then now here to Namumu. The stay here has been, in my opinion, the most enjoyable part of our trip. Something about the lake, hills, and the kids here just puts a very positive spin on the area that makes you feel good no matter what issues arise during your stay.

We began our time here with a nice welcome by the kids and staff, including the regular author of this blog, Sam. This, though, was followed by a series of long and in-depth meetings between our church, The Woodlands Community Presbyterian Church, and the Namumu faculty to discuss our partnership. I won’t go into detail, but on the whole, being the only youth on this trip (at 16), I found it quite boring. Fortunately I was able to skip the rest to interact with the kids. Most of the time I have spent with the kids has been through the playing of either soccer, the biggest sport in Zambia, or various card games, because both are not hindered too much by the cultural barrier between me and the kids. Not that the barrier really isolates me from them, it just makes things a little harder (you would surprised how often someone is speaking to you in English and yet you have no idea what they are trying to say).

Mostly this trip has been full of new experiences for me, such as having to travel almost everywhere in the backs of flat bed trucks, or having an event scheduled for a certain time and being lucky if it happens within an hour of the planned start. Not to say these are bad things, just something to get used to. With these new experiences has come some fun as well. Eating nsima with your hands, as is the custom here, as well as finishing every day with some time around the fire have been great.

On the third day here our group went with Sam down to see the kapenta boats come in and meets the crew when Sam and I had the idea to prepare one of our own meals the way many of the Zambians do around here, specifically buying a live chicken and turning it into what you would normally find in your grocery stores over in the USA. The first step in this process was acquiring a chicken, which is surprisingly easy as they roam around almost all the towns and are sold in every market. We selected a handsome, fat bird for 25,000 kwacha, or a little less then five dollars. Once we had the bird though we were a little lost as what to do next, as neither of us had killed, plucked and prepared a chicken before, so we had to ask a few of the welders and cooks at Namumu what we should do. After a brief tutorial we had a neighbor help us carry out the deed behind Sam’s house.

The act of killing the chicken fell to me, so doing as we had been told I stood on the wings and legs of our chicken, which at this point was being referred to as Pedro, and stretched out the neck before taking a knife and slicing it at the top of the throat. It turns out though that this doesn’t quite do it. You have to hack away quite a bit before it begins to bleed out and during this time the chicken is struggling quite a bit. This may sound a little barbaric to some but you have to remember this is how many chicken are killed by people all over the world, and at least to me is a little more humane and respectful then the ways they kill them by the hundreds of thousands in the USA.

After the chicken had fully bled out and was unarguably dead the next step could begin, the plucking of the feathers. You cannot just have at it and pull them out as they are still firmly attached to the chicken and are very hard to remove, so what we were told to do is dunk the chicken in boiling water to break down what ever it is that holds the feathers in. After doing this they come right out with little trouble. The rest of the preparation fell to Sam and I’m sure he will cover it in his blog, so now I’ll move onto what we are calling Pedro’s Revenge.

You see, after killing and preparing Pedro, our group began experiencing a bit of bad luck. It began the day of the killing when the power and water went out for most of the day, making flushing toilets an interesting task. But this wasn’t too drastic; it happens a lot over here so I thought nothing of it. Later that day, however, we were scheduled for a boat tour of Lake Kariba, but when we got there we were told the boats could not go out due to their fuel pumps not being able to fill the boat tanks because of the power outage. Still, these things happen with or with out a vengeful chicken’s influence. So we awaited another boat or for the power to return.

During this time we sat down by the lake discussing the day and, in particular, Pedro’s death. While this was happening I was holding onto a rope that kept one of the boats tied up when the knot slipped, sending me and the rope into the lake, soaking me from head to toe in nasty harbor water. After all this we still didn’t end up with a boat tour and as my cloths were wet I had to spend the rest of the time in a chitenge, or a dress skirt the local women wear, which greatly amused our driver as well as the kids who saw me after getting back before I had a chance to change.

This may sound like enough to satisfy Pedro and avenge his death, but that night things kept getting worse.

While watching the evening news (the power had come back by then) our group leader noticed that the airline we had booked to take us to the Copper Belt in Central Zambia the next day had gone bankrupt and was no longer in existence. This was made worse by the phones going out, making it impossible to contact the company HQ to see if another airline had picked up the flights. This being the case our leader had to wake up the next morning at 4am to drive to Lusaka and solve this transportation issue. While on the way though Pedro struck again as the minibus our leader was on smashed into a truck that was reversing down the main highway to Lusaka for God knows what crazy reason. Like I keep being told, T.I.A., or this is Africa. The crash resulted in a few bruises and a hairline fracture in our leader’s big toe, and after all that, we found our flights to be canceled with no hope of a refund. So far this has been the end of the Pedro’s Revenge, or at least we hope.

For the most part this trip though has been more than the sum total of the experiences I have had here. I know this may sound cliché but it has been an eye-opener to see how, in truth, probably most of the world lives. As an American I tend to think about the world as a much smaller place than it is. I can go to sleep in New York and awake in Johannesburg. A single meal can have parts from the US, Canada, Mexico, India, China, Japan, and many other countries all on and including one plate. My jeans are from a textile mill in Korea, my shirt Singapore, my shoes Africa and all of them shipped to me without delay.

Here, on the other hand, areas are much more local. You eat what you or your community can grow. You sleep in a house constructed from bricks made by a friend from the dirt that was the hill in the middle of the rape fields down the street that provides you with something to go with the tasteless nsima you eat for most of your daily calories.

What has gotten me the most is how happy everyone is here. When we stayed at UCZ a guy showed me to his house in a squatters area outside of town where he and his wife and four children slept in a brick room smaller then my bedroom in the US, only a few feet from the public “toilet” where human waste ran in the street. Still, I did not see one sad face among them, as long as there was nsima at every meal they where happy. This shocked me as an upper class American living in the suburbs, where every family has a decent house and money to spare, because amongst all of our excesses many are unhappy. Maybe unhappy is not the right word to describe it, but we definitely lack the joy I saw in the kids at that compound playing with a toy made of old bottles and wire and with the adults sitting at their shop stalls shooting the breeze with anyone who would pass by. Even the day laborers making around $2 a day had something to be happy about, whether it was the birth of a child, or a small bonus received for a hard days’ work, or even just having chicken for dinner that night. To me what it seems is that the more you have, the less you have to be truly thankful for, oddly enough. When all you have is three square meals and a few kids then you are really damn grateful for that food and those kids because without them you would have nothing, where as if you have three square meals, two cars, a few kids, and a house full of luxuries (and yes even a fridge, washing machine, carpet, or hot water are being considered luxuries here as a lot of people would consider them so around the world), losing one or two of these does not do a whole lot and so each one has lost value to you.

It is not our fault that we think this way, it is simply a by-product of our success and lifestyles. It is not a crime to be fortunate. It is only a crime when we stop counting our blessings and begin to ignore the problems of others only to focus on our own much more meaningless ones, sometimes even going so far as to blame the misfortune of others on themselves, which to me is a very ignorant view. Even trying to get a basic education here is blocked by huge obstacles. Many of the kids at Namumu have to wake up at 4-5am so they can walk to the high school every morning, and this is a short walk in comparison to some of the more rural communities which still are living in the bush without power, running water, or plumbing of any kind.

But, stepping off the soap box so commonly occupied by those in the area of mission work, I think it is necessary to look at what it is feasible to do about this issue. I myself have no answer as to what to do, and in a week I will return to the USA, changed…maybe. Able to do anything about what I have experienced? Maybe not, but at least I am aware and I think that is the first step many need to take. Remove the blind fold and see the world through new eyes, explore what you find uncomfortable and remember that we are all in this together. As $6,000 boots leave footprints on the moon and single people make more money than some countries, much of the human race still live in dirt homes on a few dollars a day. Whether you believe in a higher power or powers, science, money, or nothing at all, we can all agree that the survival and comfort of the human race is an issue we can all see as important.

I do not know how I came to be here living on this rock hurtling through the possibly endless void with another 6.5billion people like me, but one thing I do know is that we need to stick together and to help one another unconditionally.